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When assembling a list of London’s top eateries, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred names. Yet, situated high among these food giants is a simple salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The honour has left the family totally astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” states a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small shop earning such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.